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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Impressive full medium ruby color. Quite locked up on the nose following the February bottling; hinted at currant, smoked meat and roasted nuts as it opened in the glass. Extremely powerful but a bit chunky today, conveying an impression of extraordinary solidity. One senses but does not taste the minerals and primary berry fruit. But…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Remarkably perfumed nose projects an exotic bouquet of deep, leesy yellow fruit, minerals, honeycomb, smoked meat and flowers, with Asian spices building expanding in the glass. Almost painfully concentrated, offering a surreal parade of orchard and pit fruits, smoked meat, toasted brioche and marrow braced by intensely salty, stunningly incisive minerality. Imagine a…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Light gold. Remarkably perfumed nose projects an exotic bouquet of deep, leesy yellow fruit, minerals, honeycomb, smoked meat and flowers, with Asian spices building expanding in the glass. Almost painfully concentrated, offering a surreal parade of orchard and pit fruits, smoked meat, toasted brioche and marrow braced by intensely salty, stunningly incisive minerality. Imagine a…

2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)

A wine of almost shocking, raw power, the 2017 d’Yquem possesses tremendous depth and intensity. I expect the 2017 is going to need many years to be at its best, but is also likely to remain exuberant and a bit unruly. I don’t see the quiet sophistication of the 2015, or the energy of the…