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Vinous Event: 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (Dec 2015)

Biondi Santi’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the more controversial wines of the night. Some tasters admire the wine’s classical austerity and potential, but for others the wine is too tight to deliver real pleasure. There is little question the Biondi Santi needs time, but it is in my view impressive on this…

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1979 Krug Clos du Mesnil is one of my all-time favorites. It boasts mind-blowing intensity in its dazzling layers of mineral-infused fruit. At times the 1979 comes across as intensely pointed and focused, but it changes constantly in the glass, showing elements of richness and creaminess as well. There is fabulous depth and purity…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Lafite-Rothschild is a great wine although over several recent encounters it is never a convincing perfect wine. This mirrors the bottle I tasted at the property in 2016: blackberry and graphite on the nose, gawky at first, but coalescing with time. The palate is well balanced with firm tannins, strong graphite scents unfolding…

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Similar red-ruby color. Black cherry, licorice and caramel on the nose, plus an almost medicinal hint of iodine. Very closed in the mouth, and completely different in shape from the Clos de Beze. Intensely flavored and very long, with harder tannins and a peppery quality. This stubbornly backward wine appears to need at least seven…

The Wine Was Chambertin: Rousseau 1919-2017 (Jun 2022)

The 1995 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very aromatic bouquet with layers of feisty red fruit, rose petal and a soupçon of peppermint. This remains quite backward compared to other vintages. The palate is well-balanced with impressive weight and concentration. Muscular if compared next to the 1993, albeit without the same level of complexity or…

Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 – 2002 (Aug 2017)

Rousseau’s 1995 Chambertin is bright, precise and wonderfully nuanced. There is a sense of translucent brilliance to the 1995 that is simply compelling. Sweet red berry fruit and floral notes show striking energy throughout. What a lovely Burgundy this is.