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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes 75% from Chalumaux that was declassified in the late Seventies (there is a great story about why that happened, but I’ll leave it for another time). It has a delightful bouquet of green apple, white flowers and orange zest that bursts from the glass. The palate is well balanced with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(14 barrels produced, vs. a normal 21; 15% vendange entier): Healthy dark red. Expressive aromas and flavors of smoky raspberry, plum and spices complicated by musky minerality. Silky, sweet and easygoing, but with nothing overripe about it. Ripe tannins will not get in the way of this plush wine’s early appeal.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(the crop here was half of normal, which Frédéric Barnier described as not so bad): Pale, bright yellow-straw. Less spicy and more delicate on the nose than the Saint-Aubin cuvées, offering scents of lemon and flowers. Fresh, shapely and penetrating, even slightly austere in the early going, with its lemon and pear flavors lifted by…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, moderately saturated red. Very ripe but lively aromas of black cherry, licorice and wild herbs. Boasts surprising texture and depth for its appellation, as well as very good energy and inner-mouth lift. In contrast to my experience in many other cellars, this fresh ’15 did not come across as obviously higher in alcohol following…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Marsannay Les Longeroies has a bit of a showstopping nose and to quote Pataille – it stinks of Pinot! The palate is very well balanced with fine acidity, open and transparent with a light spiced finish. Excellent.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru, which includes 50% whole bunches, was taken from barrel. It has an attractive nose with brambly red fruit, tertiary notes and touches of cigar humidor. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins and moderate depth, but I feel there is a tad too much whole bunches on the…