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The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin-Clos des Ruchottes is one of the more perfumed, lifted wines in the range. There is good depth on the attack and through the mid-palate but the finish turns a bit compact, albeit with lovely invigorating freshness. It will be interesting to see if the 2013 gains a bit more weight in bottle….

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2008 Cheval Blanc is one of the go-to wines of the vintage. Now at 15 years old, it has retained the energy and focus it displayed from the outset: black fruit, crushed stone, wilted violet petals and touches of forest floor cohere wonderfully in the glass. The Cabernet here is more expressive. The palate…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2003)

Very deep red-ruby. Smoky, deeply concentrated fruit bomb of a nose: blackberry, dark plum, cassis; creamy vanilla and lightly toasty coconutty oak; and ethereal background notes of white pepper, smoked meats, musky spices, tar and licorice. Profoundly concentrated but velvety-smooth and seamless; impressively muscular and thickly coated with oak, and bound by drying, astringent tannins….

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) is very intense on the nose, featuring subtle licorice scents tucked behind the citrus fruit; this seems to expand with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced with a playful entry of apricot and quince. It builds beautifully in the mouth, revealing hints of crème brûlée and almond…

Vinous Table: Mount Sinai Charity Dinner at Saison (Nov 2019)

Burlotto’s 2013 Barolo Monvigliero is a wine I like to serve at dinners like this one, as I know most people may never taste it, which is a shame. Of course, the 2013 is young, but its profound greatness is evident in the early going, The interplay of aromatics, fruit and structure really brings out…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac is powerful, structured and explosive in feel. A deep, resonant wine, the 2015 boasts off the charts ripeness allied to formidable structure and tannic heft. I imagine the 2015 is going to need a number of years to become approachable and more than that to be at its best. The dark stone…