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2007 and 2006 Chablis (Jul 2008)

Pale, green-tinged yellow. Reticent aromas of mirabelle and iodine. Then tight but sappy in the mouth, with lovely inner-mouth perfume and lift to the lemon, wet stone and mineral flavors. This tactile, classic wine demonstrates the terroir more than it does the vintage. Colder, clay-rich soils, as is the case here and in Montee de…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(the crop here was reduced 25% by hail): Bright, pale yellow. A note of musky reduction to the aromas of lemon, menthol and stone. Shows a strong crushed-rock character in the mouth as well as a honeyed nuance. The menthol quality repeats on the edgy finish.

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good medium red. Red fruit aromas of cherry, redcurrant and raspberry lifted by a floral element. Supple and suave on entry, then seamless in the middle, with floral and mineral notes giving the wine excellent life in the mouth. A bit less obviously sweet toward the back, finishing with substantial dusty tannins.

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(from very old vines): Yellow fruits, flowers and a touch of minerality on the nose. Shapely and energetic, with slightly exotic pear and floral flavors firmed by harmonious acidity. Not a particularly fruity style–in fact, this is a bit neutral today–but it does not lack for dynamism.

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1997 La Grande Rue Grand Cru has a dusty, loamy bouquet that is very old school, though it does gain clarity during aeration. The palate is typical of this period at Lamarche, rustic a broad-shouldered with dark berry fruit, slightly medicinal towards the second half with a masculine finish that shows signs of drying…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 La Tour Blanche has a finely knit bouquet of yellow flowers mixed with wild honey, acacia and white peach. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and almost unctuous in the mouth, showing what feels like more residual sugar than its peers. Voluminous and mouth-filling on the finish but…