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2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Léoville-Barton marries the richness of the vintage with the classically restrained style that is so typical of Léoville-Barton. Graphite, licorice and dark spice are all laced throughout a core of inky dark fruit. The 2020 is powerful and linear, with tons of depth lying in reserve, just waiting to emerge. I won't be…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

In some ways, the 2020 Léoville Barton has become more serious than when I encountered it from barrel. It’s lost its puppy fat and delivers quite intense blackberry, blueberry and incense aromas, a little oak to be assimilated yet still very focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a “coolness” on the entry, taut yet deep…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Léoville Barton was picked September 15–16 and matured in 70% new oak. It is one of the best vintages that I have encountered in barrel. Wow! This shoots from the glass with beautifully defined black fruit, mineral-rich aromas, pixelated with laser-like focus. The palate is medium-bodied with chiseled tannins, a perfect line of…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(from vines picked near the beginning of the harvest; just about finished with its malolactic fermentation): Pale yellow color. Aromas of peach, white pepper and menthol. Nicely concentrated flavors of pineapple, stone fruits, clove and saline minerality juxtapose a subtle savory character with a sexy touch of sweetness. A step up in texture and length…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru has a more “aloof” bouquet. It’s Zen-like at first, with apple blossom and light, wet pavement scents. However, I would have liked more intensity. The palate is nicely balanced with deftly integrated oak. A silver bead of acidity keeps this Puligny on its tiptoes, fresh and saline so…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru is a little more reduced on the nose and less expressive than the preceeding Les Referts. After a couple of minutes though, it develops an attractive liquorices scent. The palate is well balanced with good concentration slightly higher toned than the La Garenne and the Les Referts with…