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Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Pale yellow-gold. Reticent nose hints at caramel and vanilla. Fat and high-toned, with superripe, unctuous flavors of candied yellow fruits and honey. At once chewy and lively, and hiding more than it’s showing today. Very strong finish features subtle spicy persistence. Offers terrific potential, but is it as well balanced as the young 2002?

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2003 Climens is missing a bit of complexity on the nose, just a little Alsace-like with age, a touch of petrol and quince. The palate is tangy on the entry, fine acidity considering the vintage, yet it lacks complexity and mineralité on the finish. I am not an ardent admirer of this vintage in…

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Medium yellow. Reticent, spicy nose opens slowly to reveal apricot, orange and caramel. Fat, silky and sweet, with the sheer concentration to support its substantial alcohol. Quite unctuous for Climens, with an almost confectionery quality to the fruit. Comes across as less firm than usual for a young Climens, but then today the wine’s structure…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good medium red. Sappy black cherry and spices on the nose; fruitier now than the village Chambolle. Then fatter and more harmonious on the palate, with good supple, accessible fruit. Tannins are nicely buffered on the lingering, ripe finish. Roumier sought wines with lighter tannins in 2004, carrying out less extraction during vinification: he vinified…

The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)

(Colin picked this fruit on the fourth day of the harvest, which he described as possibly a bit late): Strong white peach and nectarine aromas accented by anise and white pepper. More plump and sweet than most of the preceding wines from Chassagne and Puligny, and a bit warm in spite of the fact that…

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Bright yellow-gold. Sexy aromas of orange liqueur and spices. Sweet, round and pure, with a lush texture verging on unctuous. And yet this is wonderfully aromatic and light on its feet. Very ripe and very complex in the mouth, with harmonious acids framing the flavors of orange oil, peach and spicy oak. Finishes very long,…