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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village, a blend of several parcels, has a light Granny Smith and wet limestone-scented bouquet. It could benefit from more intensity. The palate is well balanced with more depth than expected, fine acidity though it just misses a little complexity and tension on the finish.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village has quite an intense and voluminous bouquet, quite Chassagne-like in style. The palate is taut and fresh with Clementine and apricot notes, modest weight with a lilting finish. Fine.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an exquisite bouquet with pure dark cherries, raspberry preserve and crushed stone aromas, very focused and classy, yet totally understated. The palate is very supple in the mouth, wonderful acidity, a little more corpulent than the Caillerets with a sense of lushness on the finish. I just…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Talbot is aromatically quite expressive, but less available on the palate, where it is quite closed down. Time in the glass brings out a host of sweet tobacco, smoke, leather, cedar, mint, licorice and red-toned fruit. In two tastings, Talbot gave the impression it is going to need at least a few years…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Talbot has an airy, well-defined bouquet of blackberry, cedar and light minty aromas, perhaps more Pauillac than Saint-Julien. The medium-bodied palate delivers gritty tannins, a fine bead of acidity and a graphite-infused finish. This is very fine for Talbot, a Saint-Julien hewn in a typically classic style. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Beychevelle is the one wine that I vowed to re-taste at the château since I found three samples tasting in the UK vexing because of a green taint on the finish. Here, the nose performs well: pure blackberry and crushed violet, none of those incongruous “mulch” or “vegetal” scents that I noticed before….