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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Beychevelle comes across as much more powerful and plush in bottle than it did as a barrel sample. The black cherry, smoke, leather, tobacco, spice and incense notes are all endowed with notable textural depth. Voluptuous but also quite tannic, the 2015 is going to need at least a few years to come…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux has an enticing nose with mainly red fruit and a light cedar and irony tincture. It’s mature but still vigorous and has plenty in the tank. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, tensile entry. It’s irony (again) with a welcome spiciness on the finish. More concentrated than you…

Vinous Table: Cornus, London, UK (Oct 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux is a vintage that I tasted earlier this year at the château, although here it is a rare chance to savor the wine from neck to punt. What a joy. It is certainly open for business on the nose, leaning towards red rather than black fruit, violet and peony, cedar and…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1996 Cos d’Estournel has a fragrant, Pauillac-tinged bouquet with the melted tar and graphite leitmotifs that I remarked upon in previous encounters. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy-textured tannin. I feel that the 1996 shows a tad more maturity than a few months ago, with undergrowth and peat-like notes surfacing with aeration and then…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Haut-Brion has a well-defined, quite cerebral nose—a mélange of red and black fruit, black olive, subtle estuarine scents. The oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent, almost viscous, very concentrated entry. There's enormous depth here, and though very ripe on the finish, it's perfectly controlled and focused. To…