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2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Deep red-ruby. Currant, mocha, game, coffee and smoky oak on the nose. Silky-smooth and sweet on entry, then less expressive in the mouth, and not currently showing much complexity. Today the tannins have the upper hand, but the wine’s concentration and structure suggest it will harmonize with five to seven years of bottle aging.

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy dark red. Musky aromas of cherry, plum, sweet oak and smoky minerality. Utterly silky and seamless; finer-grained and suppler in the early going than the Echézeaux but also wonderfully taut and precise. Boasts outstanding retention of crushed raspberry fruit enlivened by saline minerality and violet. Finishes sappy and very long, with noble, thoroughly integrated…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(from the lieu-dit En Orveaux; just 28 hectoliters per hectare produced): Dark, bright red. Captivating aromas of cherry, red berries and dried flowers are accented by topnotes of white pepper and high-pitched spices. Juicy, spicy, penetrating and dry, with a floral light touch and terrific energy giving its tactile fruit a distinctly sappy character. Finishes…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a commendable bouquet blessed with more fruit than some of its peers: redcurrant and cranberry, mulch and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins (a little austere like many 2014 reds), perhaps just missing a bit of flesh towards the finish. Drink over the…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good dark red. Cool, youthfully inexpressive nose dominated by black cherry and smoky minerality; the strictest of these 2014s today (Mallard described it as Cistercian). Densely packed and very rich but classically dry, with savory minerality currently holding the upper hand over the wine’s fruit. This extremely backward wine is also showing its new oak…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale yellow. Aromas of oily yellow peach, pear, white flowers and flinty minerality. Sweet, intense and fine-grained, with harmonious acidity and a firm spine of minerality giving energy and finesse to the middle palate. Best today on the rising, resounding finish.