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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Roncières 1er Cru, which was affected by hail, had just a small reduction on the nose. The palate is easier to read with attractive, quite tensile red cherry and blueberry fruit. The oak is nicely integrated here and there is a sorbet-like freshness on the finish that has plenty of…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

The 2017 Gattinara is terrific. It will also give readers something to drink without waiting decades. In 2017, the Gattinara is a bit richer than it often is – the result of the warm dry year – but its profile is super-classic. Sweet pipe tobacco, mint, dried herbs, licorice, dried cherry and Alpine herbs fill…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Bourgogne Blanc has a focused bouquet with citrus peel, grass clippings and marine influences. The palate is well-balanced and simple with fine acidity, moderate length and cooking apple on the finish. Fine.

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

I’m not sure how Il Poggione manages to remain one of the largest producers of Brunello, maintaining such a high level of quality and turning out some of the best wines of the vintage year after year – but they do. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is yet another stunning example. Depths of mineral-encased black…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

A classic from the first tilt of the glass, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino wows the senses with a pleasantly old-school bouquet of leather, earth tones, dried flowers, crushed cherries, sage and clove. This mixes radiant dark red fruits with sweet spices and salty mineral tones to create a display of contrasts, all over a…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru includes 20% whole bunch, harvested on September 22 (a little earlier than the négociant) and aged in 40% new oak. It has a fresh, exuberant bouquet of far more Pinoté than the négociant example, bunches of rose petals and peony emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with…