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The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Saturated ruby. Deeply pitched, spice-accented aromas of cassis, smoky minerals, incense and dark chocolate. Large-scaled and broad in the mouth, offering intense blackcurrant, cherry-vanilla, mocha and candied violet flavors that are supported by a core of juicy acidity. Shows superb density and vivacity as well, with no rough edges. Finishes extremely long and precise, with…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged January, 2013): Light, bright gold. Powerful orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by smoky lees, iodine, chamomile and buttered toast. At once fleshy and energetic, offering deeply pitched poached pear, peach pit and brioche flavors and a suave floral element. Finishes smoky and very long, with mounting spiciness and lingering floral and vanilla…

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright pale yellow. Lemon, spices, hazelnut and stone on the complex but reserved nose. Juicy, spicy, intense and dry, showing lovely mineral support for its citrus and white peach flavors. Tightly wound wine in need of a few years of patience.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright yellow. A distinct step up in complexity and depth from the Roche de Bellene village Meursault, with its peach and hazelnut aromas complicated by spicy, vanillin oak and a floral element. Broad, easygoing and sweet, offering oily stone fruit and spice flavors and considerable early appeal. Has just enough acidity to maintain its balance….

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin En Montceau 1er Cru has a classy, beautifully-defined bouquet. Minerally malic scents, petrichor and light orange blossom emerge with time. The palate is well-balanced with a supple opening, good extract here, fine cohesion with just the right amount of salinity towards the finish. The persistence here is very impressive and this comes…