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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2006 Haut-Bailly is a very capable Pessac-Léognan from an oft-overlooked vintage. This repeats its showing from a few months earlier with lovely blue and black fruits and violet aromas. Perhaps a mote of chimney soot here? The palate is medium-bodied with that slightly ferrous note and tobacco. This bottle is a touch creamier in…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full ruby-red. Sappy aromas of black and blue fruits, licorice pastille and menthol lifted by a floral topnote. Then tight, dry and classic on the palate, with terrific energy and an impression of weightlessness to the youthfully imploded flavors of black fruits, minerals, camphor, cedar and tobacco. As smooth as it is, it’s also quite…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2006 Haut-Bailly is a very capable Pessac-Léognan from an oft-overlooked vintage. This repeats its showing from a few months earlier with lovely blue and black fruits and violet aromas. Perhaps a mote of chimney soot here? The palate is medium-bodied with that slightly ferrous note and tobacco. This bottle is a touch creamier in…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2009 Grands Echézeaux is a fresh, vibrant wine. Minerality takes center stage in this perfumed, sweet Burgundy. The clenched style calls for patience, but the wine’s potential seems quite high. The finish is vibrant and impeccably polished in every way. The Grands-Echézeaux is made from purchased wine. Not surprisingly, this is totally different in…

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

Medium red. Reticent but pure aromas of crushed stone, flowers and tobacco. Fat, silky, pliant and broad; not quite as gripping as the Echezeaux but plush and suave. Here the silky tannins are more thoroughly covered by the wine’s sweet fruit. This really perfumes the mouth.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Medium-deep ruby. Exotic, perfumed aromas of dark cherry, spicy plum, soy sauce and Oriental spices. Full and voluptuous on the palate, this boasts exceptionally ripe, decadent red cherry flavors lifted by soy sauce and cinnamon nuances. Very long and silky, with unbelievably fine-grained tannins. With its texture of liquid velvet, this should make a memorable…