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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Lafite-Rothschild was bottled at the end June 2019, two months prior to my visit to the château. It has a lovely bouquet with blackberry, briary, brine and cedar. Generous, especially for the normally more introspective First Growth. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that frame the blackberry and bilberry fruit. The acidity…

Cellar Favorite: 1961 & 2012 Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2024)

The 2012 Mouton-Rothschild is now drinking beautifully. Black and blue fruit on the nose, with touches of potpourri and graphite, this certainly had no intention of being overshadowed by the 1961. Still youthful, the aromatics suggest another three or four years in bottle will do it no harm. Likewise, the palate remains youthful though less…

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

(80% tempranillo and 20% garnacha): Vivid ruby-red. Suave, spicy red fruit preserve and potpourri scents are complicated by notes of vanilla, licorice and mocha. Sappy, focused and energetic, offering sweet raspberry and cherry-cola flavors that are given lift by juicy acidity. Impressively pure and penetrating on the finish, which leaves floral pastille and smoky mineral…

2005 Tuscany – Ten Years Later (Dec 2015)

The 2005 Tignanello is just beginning to enter the early part of its drinking window, although it clearly has enough stuffing to drink well for another 20 years, if not longer. Smoke, graphite, plums, earthiness, black cherries and spices take shape in the glass, but it is the wine pure power and intensity – both…

Vinous Table: Providence, Los Angeles, CA (Feb 2020)

The 1990 Haut-Brion is exotic, flamboyant and super-expressive. Dark fruit, leather, licorice and grilled herbs are all amped up. Although the 1990 doesn’t quite have the aromatic depth and intensity of the very finest years, it is nevertheless a stunning, gorgeous wine of the highest level.

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Good medium color. Fabulous aromas of spicy cherries, minerals, tobacco and smoky oak. Saline entry, then intense, spicy fruit and excellent extract. Very firm and subtle, with outstanding clarity of flavor. Lovely ripe acids and a long, subtle aftertaste. Will no doubt live in the shadows of the larger-scaled, more dramatic ’89, but this very…