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Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2010 Climens has just been a bit variable bottle-to-bottle. This was a transitional Climens as biodynamics was being introduced. Again, I find this a little subdued at the moment, perhaps going through a sulky adolescent stage. The palate is well balanced with a menthol-tinged entry, fine depth and acidity, more expressive towards the finish…

Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013 (Jan 2022)

The last time I tasted the 2009 Doisy-Daëne, I felt it was in a dumb phase. This bottle suggests that it is no longer in that phase! It has a lovely bouquet with honey, white peach, nougat and light marzipan scents, growing in intensity with just a touch of lavender. Wonderful definition. The palate is…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Rieussec is deeper in color than its peers, though this did come from a half-bottle. The bouquet features marmalade, peach and mango scents, though I aver that it does not deliver the mineralité of other, dare I say, more successful vintages. The palate is much better, offering harmonious honeyed fruit, marmalade, orange peel,…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Pale yellow-gold. Superripe nose dominated by honey and marzipan. Hugely ripe and deep, with compelling layers and depth of fruit. Superconcentrated, exotic flavors of apricot, minerals and coconut. Wonderfully chewy, thick and sweet, and extremely long on the aftertaste. A huge wine that will impress early but will really need a minimum of a decade…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Echo de Lynch Bages has a very attractive bouquet, a mélange of red and black fruit tinged with damp loam and undergrowth aromas, all well defined and adding welcome floral scents with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins. Hints of graphite and bell pepper infuse the ample black fruit….

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A dark, imposing wine, the 2012 Roc des Cambes is distinctly dark and brooding. Black cherries, smoke, licorice, tar and dark spices fleshed [?]. Vertical in style and quite structured, the 2012 could use another few years in bottle to fully come together, which will also help the chewy tannins to integrate a bit more…