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Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Roc de Cambes has an opulent bouquet with blueberry and black cherry scents, floral with a fair slathering of new oak. The palate is medium-bodied, quite toasty in style, with a lot of vanillary new oak, as the nose suggests, which occludes terroir expression on the finish. The bottle last year was far…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(just 25% new oak; from a yield of 45 hectoliters per hectare, as this vineyard avoided the frost): Shows yellower fruit aromas than the last few samples, complicated by hints of lime blossom and noble herbs. An attractive saline midweight with lovely inner-mouth floral lift; bright acidity frames the lemon zest fruit. This crisp, chiseled…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(at 13% potential alcohol, this cuvée was the highest in octane in 2016 and was not chaptalized; these vines were affected by frost–the yield was 24 hectoliters per hectare–but not to the same extent as the estate’s Echézeaux and Musigny): Dark red with ruby tones. Captivating, ripe, soil-driven nose shows savory mineral and spice nuances….

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is the product of a tiny harvest in which a significant portion of the vintage was damaged by frost. The berries that ultimately made it into the tanks (all first generation) had very thick skins. In tasting, the 2016 is quite concentrated and also very exotic, with strong tropical inflections….

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(production was half of normal in 2016; aged in 30% new oak and bottled at the beginning of April of this year): Pale yellow-green. High-pitched aromas of citrus peel, menthol, lavender and white pepper. Extremely tight without coming across as austere, conveying striking purity to its bracing flavors of grapefruit pith, lemon and crushed stone….

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(12.7% alcohol; vinified with 40% whole clusters): Medium red. Musky scents of raspberry, smoke and black olive reminded me of Syrah. Suave and seamless in the mouth, conveying a ripe chocolatey quality as well as good herbal lift. More spicy and serious than the basic village offering but also more imploded today. Finishes with dusty…