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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

(white label): Medium red. High-pitched, rather cool aromas of cherry, raspberry, white tobacco, medicinal herbs, minerals and menthol. Then Quite dry and backward on the palate, with mint and herb flavor dominating. Almost Barolo-like in its medicinal character. Very young and backward Asili, displaying terrific fruit through the retronasal passage.

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The estate’s 2004 Camartina is another irresistibly sexy wine. A deeply-colored ruby, it displays captivating aromatics along with notes of blackberries, blueberries, violets and graphite that emerge on its medium-bodied frame. The fine tannins make it a highly enjoyable wine even at this early stage, but my experience suggests that another few years of bottle…

2013 Brunello di Montalcino: The Throwback Vintage (Feb 2024)

It’s nearly impossible to pull away from the glass as the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a classic blend of dusty rose, leather and earth tones, complemented by hints of sweet spice. This is soft and round, with juicy acidity and mineral-tinged red fruit, becoming spicy and potent toward the close. A lovely…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Bright red. The intense note of violet on the nose is absolutely captivating and nicely lifts the aromas of sweet red cherry and aromatic oils. Then very rich, dense and juicy, conveying a seamless quality to its multilayered orchard fruit, spicy red berry and mineral flavors. The exhilarating finish echoes with lingering and repeating floral…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

The 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is outrageously beautiful. The ripeness of the Chardonnay is front and center in a Champagne that delivers the goods, big-time. An infusion of apricot, orange peel, crème brûlée, chamomile, hazelnut and honey give the 2002 its racy, exotic personality. I enjoy it most with bottle age, but the 2002…