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Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2004 Masseto, one of my personal favorites, is positively stellar. I have always adored the 2004 for its silky tannins, stunning aromatic presence and total finesse, all of which are on display today. Beautifully pure to the long finish and profoundly beautiful in every way, the 2004 has it all. It was a textbook…

Vinous Table: Wilton’s, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The 1991 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne has a stunning nose with superb definition, scents of black plum, sloes, iodine and Provençal herbs (sage and wild fennel). It blossoms with aeration. The palate is framed by saturated tannins, layers of sweet black cherries mingling with kirsch, vanilla pod and Indian spices. Though plush, it develops more and…

A Tasting of the 1991 Northern Rhones (Nov 1998)

Deep ruby-red to the rim. Supersweet, exotic aromas of fruitcake, sweet butter, maple syrup and coconut. Extremely concentrated and thick, but quite backward today; still dominated by its structure. Strong notes of iron and brown spices from the darker soils. Finishes with palate saturating tannins and an exotic, roasted flavor that shows extraordinary persistence.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

Vinous Table: La Trompette, London, UK (Aug 2018)

The 1998 Pape Clément Rouge is a wine that I rounded on in my overview of 1998s although this bottle expresses less of that green trait I noticed before. It has an overtly sumptuous and decadent bouquet that smothers the terroir expression, although it develops purity with time. The palate is laden with rich black…