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Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussières 1er Cru displays heavy reduction on the nose that obscures the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, and quite animally in style but full of character, though the finish does not quite deliver the definition and vigor that I would have liked. Give it another two…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Good dark red. Darker and more medicinal than the village Chambolle, offering aromas of black cherry, mocha and menthol. Densely packed and fine-grained, with its flavors of black cherry, menthol, minerals and licorice showing very good verve considering the wine’s low acidity (3.1 grams per liter). But then the pH here is a reasonable 3.41….

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 2004 l’Eglise-Clinet is an outstanding wine for the vintage, where notes both from bottles and magnum have been uniformly impressive. It has a fragrant bouquet with copious red cherry, crushed strawberry, orange sorbet and violet aromas that you would think come from a warmer growing season. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine-grain tannin,…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Moderately saturated red-ruby. Aromas of dark cherry, plum, coffee, spices and underbrush. Supple, sweet and easygoing, with a deep spiciness and good definition to its slightly medicinal black fruit flavors. Can’t match the 2005 for sweetness or complexity but this has subtle depth and plenty of underlying structure. I pray for a cold summer every…

Fermented Grape Juice: Romanée-Conti 1953-2005 (Apr 2019)

The 2002 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 21 at 25hl/ha. It is a very fine wine, if not belonging to the very highest echelon of Romanée-Conti like the 1999 or 2005. Appearance-wise, it has a little more degradation on the rim than expected. It feels uncompromising and forthright on the nose and I…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Good deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, mocha and earth; currently in a shell and not showing the treble notes of La Tache. Then silky and thick but very closed, even inscrutable. Comes across as less sweet and less vibrant today than La Tache, but this is chewy, voluminous and quite powerful, with very good…