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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(14% alcohol; no frost here): Deep ruby-red. Superripe, even slightly roasted aromas of black raspberry and chocolate are at the verge of extreme. Hugely sweet, creamy wine with adequate acidity but a distinctly candied fruit character for the year. Finishes very long and a bit aggressive but not quite warm, with big, chewy tannins accentuated…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a more open bouquet than the Mazis-Chambertin, offering nicely focused blackberry, briar and pencil box aromas and good intensity. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and zesty, with fine tannins and blood orange infusing the blue fruit on the persistent finish. Superb, though it needs several years in the cellar.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru has (another) very well defined bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and sous-bois aromas, a little stemminess in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, impressive depth, but what underpins this premier cru is the freshness and tension on the finish. It should age with style. Superb.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is beguiling and pure on the nose with perfumed red cherries, raspberry and cranberry – blossoming with aeration. The palate is everything that you really wish for in a Clos de la Roche: impressive structure, multi-layered red fruit, mineralité that belies the warmth of the summer and…

Northern Rhône 2024: One Hill Rises

Dark and brooding, the majestic 2022 Cornas Reynard unfurls with prominent notes of cured meat, dried blackberry, pencil shavings, subtle cedar, and dried stems. On the full-bodied palate, it delivers beguiling intensity and concentration while remaining remarkably fresh and invigorating. Without question, the 2022 is the finest Cornas of the vintage, and this savoury beast…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a harmonious, almost understated bouquet armed with real mineralité and complexity. It is so nuanced but reveals more tropical scents, such as mango and passion fruit, after ten minutes. The palate is well-balanced with a waxy-textured opening. With fine acidity, it’s pretty compact on the mid-palate with…