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Mâconnais 2022/2023: Don’t Pass Me By (Aug 2024)

The 2022 Mâcon-Pierreclos 1er Jus de Chavigne comes from free-run juices from the best plots except Juliette. This has a discrete bouquet with white peach, walnut and subtle smoky aromas that need a little coaxing from the glass. The palate is very well-balanced, with crisp acidity that counterbalances the richness. It’s pure, with a hint…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Auxey-Duresses Village is quite high-toned on the nose, a little feistier than the Bourgogne Rouge, though it calms down in the glass. The palate is sweet on the entry, with a dash of black pepper, graphite, black plum and licorice toward the finish. It will require a couple of years in bottle.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Meursault Rougeots has a beautifully defined bouquet of fine focus and mineralité, featuring touches of lemon curd and orange blossom and flecks of white chocolate hand-in-hand with praline emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a lightly spiced opening and impressive depth. This Rougeots is surfeit with tension, and the very…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru has a more oaky nose than its peers, though it is well-defined and simpatico with the fruit. The palate is well balanced with orange rind and touches of marmalade, a little Chassagne-like in style, maybe more Côte d’Or than Chablis? Still, I like the tangy spiciness on the aftertaste….

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru has plenty of energy on the nose, offering scents of crushed stone and chalk, hints of fresh green apples and a touch of spice. The palate is well balanced with a superb, clean line of acidity and wonderful tension. Isabelle Raveneau remarked how well this vineyard copes with…

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is airy and weightless in feel. A wine that speaks in hushed tones, the Butteaux is marked by soaring aromatics, vertical lift and a decidedly ethereal personality. Crushed rocks, lime, white pepper and chalk give the Butteaux its striking upper register that is very nicely complemented by saline underpinnings…