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Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)

The 2016 Cantenac Brown seems to have grown aromatically since I last tasted it a few months ago. More complex than I remember, this offers a cornucopia of scents: blackberry, briary, cedar and a lovely mintiness that recalls Palmer. The palate is silky smooth with great depth and delineation, satin-like, multi-layered, precocious black fruit laced…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Cantenac Brown has a bright nose of blackberry and bilberry fruit, cedar and tobacco emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins and fleshy, brambly red fruit laced with cedar and white tea, leading to a cohesive finish. I was parsimonious with my score in the past, but…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Cantenac Brown is a super-concentrated, potent Margaux. Raspberry jam, mocha, licorice, plum, new oak and spice are all lavishly rendered. Broad and sweeping on the palate, with tremendous richness and resonance, Cantenac Brown is one of the bigger, more overt Margauxs of the vintage. Readers should expect a big, ripe wine. In several…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Haut-Brion has a superb bouquet with very well-defined blackberry, cedar, cigar humidor and dried blood scents that blossom in the glass – quintessential Haut-Brion. The palate is medium-bodied with an almost medicinal entry and fine acidity. It’s the eucalyptus aspect that really defines the finish, something that I was not expecting. Does that…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Deep, shimmering ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, vanilla, pipe tobacco, exotic spices, cola and potpourri. Deeply concentrated and energetic on the palate, offering smoke-laced black currant, cherry liqueur, spicecake and mocha flavors that display outstanding clarity and pick up a candied violet nuance on the back half. Polished, steadily…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

In the 2017 Poggio alle Nane is racy and opulent to the core. Ripeness is pushed to the edge, if not beyond. Jammy dark fruit, spice, leather and licorice are all kicked up a few notches. This is an especially hedonistic wine, even within the context of the year.