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2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

(from a crop level of just 15 hectoliters per hectare, which Philippe described as the smallest here in decades) Saturated ruby. Superripe aromas of liqueur-like black raspberry, smoked meat and roasted nuts. A wine of incredible confectionery sweetness, density and depth, and atypically large-scaled (14. 5% alcohol) and glyceral for La Mouline. To suggest it…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Dark red. Cool, slightly medicinal nose hints at licorice, dark chocolate and currant leaf. Richer and more velvety than the Armailhac but less expressive and evolving slowly. This has very good acidity but also a lovely subtle sweetness for the year and surprisingly suave, broad tannins.

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1961 Brane-Cantenac is a wine that I have been lucky enough to taste three or four times before. It’s a wonderful 1961 that comes racing out of the blocks, displaying vestiges of red fruit, autumn leaves, mint, chlorophyll and blood orange on the nose. It just feels multifaceted and more complex than the 1959, even if…

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Saturated bright, deep ruby. Captivating aromas of blackcurrant, lead pencil, tar, vanilla, mint and bourbon; the oak contributes an incense quality without overpowering the wine other aromatic components. Supple, juicy and intensely flavored, with bright, ripe acids framing the fruit and giving the wine lovely inner-mouth perfume. Lively and consistent from start to finish. Finishes…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Pale orange-copper color. Musky aromas of spicy red berries, smoke and earth. Very ripe but nicely dry, with excellent precision of flavor. Seems almost accessible at first blush, but in fact still youthfully clenched and not yet expansive. Still, this is a bit more gently styled and less convincing than some recent vintages of this…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pavie Macquin is a vintage that I had not encountered for many years. The clean nose features red cherry and light balsamic scents, although it lacks complexity for the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, slightly rigid tannins, quite a lot of soy and a rather short, ferrous finish. This ought to…