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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva pulls you close to the glass with a deep and seductive display of black raspberry preserves complemented by sweet sage, dried roses and pipe tobacco. With further coaxing, it gains in volume and lift, taking on hints of mint and camphor. This greets the palate with undeniable elegance, casting…

Vietti Barolo Rocche: A Historical Retrospective 1961-2011 (May 2016)

The 2010 Barolo Rocche is as alluring as it has always been. Yes, it is young. Very young. But its greatness simply can’t be denied. Vivid, precise and nuanced to the core, the 2010 simply has it all. Simply put, the 2010 Rocche is an utterly profound wine that captures all of the nobility of…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

(42 days of maceration): Deep, fresh red. Knockout primary nose offers strawberry, raspberry, smoke, menthol, tobacco and rose petal. Like liquid silk in the mouth, conveying incredible thickness to its youthful fruit flavors. Powerful salty minerality gives this utterly seamless wine uncanny urgency. Finishes with big, dusty, fine-grained tannins and great length. Currado noted that…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Boudots 1er Cru has a conspicuous fish scale scent on the nose that complements the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, sappy red fruit, lightly spiced with a sinewy finish that just about manages to retain an essence of finesse. This could evolve nicely in bottle.

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Barolo Sperss shows all of the darkness and muscle that are so typical of Serralunga. Black cherry, plum, licorice, incense, gravel, cured meats and scorched earth infuse this potent, backward wine with tremendous character. My impression is that the extraction and oak are all a bit more pushed here relative to the other…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1989 Cos d’Estournel is certainly showing more maturity on the rim compared to the 1990. Ten years ago I remember the aromatics being very attractive and yet, they appear to have faded in recent years with autumn leaf, bay leaf and cigar box aromas. The bouquet lacks vigor and charm. The palate is well…