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California’s North Coast (May 2014)

(79% cabernet sauvignon, 6% cabernet franc, 6% petit verdot, 6% merlot and 3% malbec): Deep red-ruby. Highly perfumed aromas of blackcurrant, violet, coffee, graphite, menthol and leather. Sappy, classically dry and penetrating, showing excellent intensity to the flavors of black fruits, coffee bean, spices and bitter chocolate. Boasts lovely grain and density but this is…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2012 Opus One is a terrific choice for drinking now. Silky and beautifully perfumed, the 2012 is wonderfully open-knit in this tasting. The purity of the fruit is alluring, There’s still a good bit of freshness, too. Naturally, the 2012 reflects the medium-bodied style that is typical of the year, but all the elements…

Vinous Table: Dinner with Friends in San Francisco (Feb 2018)

Aldo Conterno’s 1990 Barolo Riserva Granbussia, a wine from the estate’s glory days, more than lives up to its reputation. The Granbussia is darker and noticeably softer than the Monfortino, signs that Aldo Conterno long had a more modernist leaning than his brother, Giovanni Conterno, who made the 1990 at the family’s Giacomo Conterno estate….

Vinous Table: Carbone, New York (Jul 2015)

We end on a high note with the sublime 1989 Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Powerful yet also super-finessed, the 1989 boasts extraordinary aromatics, seemingly endless fruit and striking inner sweetness. A real knock-out, the 1989 is hauntingly beautiful from the very first taste.

Mád Idea: Royal Tokaji 1990-2013 (Jul 2019)

The 1990 Tokaji Betsek 5-Puttonyos has 140g/L residual sugar and 9.35g/L acidity. Its lucid burnished gold color shows a faint green-tinted rim. The nose offers scents of crème caramel, butterscotch and toffee; it is not intense and perhaps missing a little focus, yet still agreeable. The palate is powerful on the entry and very viscous…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

This bottle of 1989 Climens replicates the stunning showing at the château the previous year. Yellow plum and saffron soars on the electrifying nose, just breathtaking delineation and vibrancy. The palate is likewise brimming over with energy, very intense yet brilliantly poised with a purity on the finish that I feel that Climens rarely achieved…