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New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2017 Sassicaia shows the natural richness and intensity of the year while retaining its mid-weight sense of balance and overall poise. A burst of super-ripe red cherry/plum fruit makes a strong opening statement. Mocha, cinnamon, leather and dried herbs appear later, adding aromatic lift. The 2017 is a fairly immediate Sassicaia. Even so, it…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Belgrave is a gorgeous Haut-Médoc. Bold and punchy, the 2005 has plenty of richness and power. Succulent black cherry, mocha, tobacco licorice, dried herbs, mint, gravel and crushed flowers abound. I imagine the 2005 still has another decade of fine drinking to offer. It sure is impressive, that much is obvious.

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Moulin Saint-Georges is a flashy, voluptuous wine. Inky blue/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, menthol and white flowers are all generous in this pliant, fruity Saint-Georges. The balance of fruit and the freshness conferred by some of the north-facing parcels on the property make for a super-expressive, complete wine. The 2016 is 80% Merlot and…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Moulin Saint-Georges has a beguiling, pure black cherry and bilberry bouquet that develops subtle pressed iris scents with time. The oak (85% new) is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and vanilla-y red berry fruits that gently grip the palate, leading to an almost candied finish. This feels long…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Brane-Cantenac was bottled towards the end of July, a little later than usual, partly due to the logistics. It takes time to open in the glass, offering gorgeous blackberry, pencil box and tobacco scents that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and outstanding delineation. Very cohesive, this…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Brane-Cantenac was picked September 14–28 and includes 13% vin de presse. It has exactly the same blend as last year since Henri Lurton and his team did not limit the Grand Vin to the 30-hectare plateau, a similar approach to Pichon-Baron when they reorganized their own vineyard. I allowed my sample an hour…