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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

(54% cabernet sauvignon and 46% merlot) Bright ruby-red. Raspberry and flowers on the nose. Juicy, leanish and very fresh, but not at all underripe. There’s good flesh lurking, but, like the grand vin, this is a bit austere today, even a tad spiky. Finishes with hints of dark fruits and chocolate.

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1996 La Mission Haut-Brion is an improvement on the previous vintage, though it remains a couple of steps behind the high point of the decade, which came two years later. This is quintessential 1996 Pessac, featuring scents of warm gravel and scorched earth on a nose that might be classic to some, but a…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Very reticent aromas of plum, black cherry, leather, dark chocolate and flowers; faint suggestion of surmaturite. Fat with sweet fruit; lush and voluminous for the vintage. Finishes with big but very even tannins that spread out on the palate.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very deep ruby-red. Pungent, inky, nutty aromas of blackcurrants and minerals; very sexy oak treatment gives the nose a wonderful sweetness. Big, minerally, and shapely, with lovely purity of dark berry flavor. Has clarity and grip, but not quite the richness of the ’95. The tannins build in the glass, but are in harmony with…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Les Forts de Latour is one of many that I had not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old, it has a lovely, almost melted bouquet of black fruit laced with tar, cedar and pine, rose petal, occupying that liminal point between primary and secondary stages. The well-balanced palate offers a…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Good deep red. Slightly leafy aromas of currant, licorice and eucalyptus. Sweet, sexy flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco; comes across as more pliant than the 2002, with a suggestion of more merlot. But can’t quite match that wine for definition or grip.