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Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1989 Climens has an even more complex bouquet than the 1990 and perhaps the best bottle that I have encountered. Yellow plum, saffron, quince and a touch of Manuka honey soars on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with a tangy, eucalyptus-tinged entry, very harmonious and long. Surfeit with energy, this is a fabulous…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Climens retains its glorious bouquet of copious scents of dried honey, saffron, barley sugar and gingerbread – so vibrant and engaging. This feels as if it has more vim and vigor than the 1999 tasted alongside. The harmonious palate is full of life and mellifluous in texture, featuring quince and stewed apricot mixed…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Green-tinged straw color. Initially less expressive nose opened to show floral, herbal and vanillin notes as well as a pungent minerally quality. Very sweet but very suave, with fresh but perfectly integrated acidity serving to frame and intensify the superb, mineral-and-citric fruit. Can’t match the ’90 for pure size and power but the harmoniousness of…

Vinous Table: Charity Dinner to Benefit the Frankie Lemmon School (Mar 2014)

Beaucastel’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is one of my very favorite wines. Unfortunately I don’t get a chance to drink it all that often. Our magnum of 1990 is truly magnificent. A wine that takes over all the senses, the 1990 impresses for its layered personality and breathtaking fruit. In a word: stunning. The…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal is just fabulous. Chiseled and nuanced to the core, the 2008 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lemon peel, graphite, mint, lime, chalk and white flowers all race across the palate. This is classic Cristal in a cool, late-ripening year.