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An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has a more capable nose than the previous vintage, with layers of red and black fruit, a touch of garrigues and pressed flowers. Lovely delineation, this gains intensity with aeration and shades the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh and vibrant. It has better salinity than the…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1982 Lafleur reappears in Hong Kong but here it is (unfairly) juxtaposed against the mortal 1986 Lafleur. Maybe the 1982 is immortal? This bottle is firing on all cylinders – there is no stage fright here! Intense black fruit on the nose with stunning delineation, those light gravel scents more in the background than…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1982 Lafleur is a wine that I tasted several times, always flirting and sometimes reaching perfection. This bottle has a bit of stage fright but came together brilliantly in the glass. There is that very intense, Cabernet Franc driven bouquet that has a crystalline beauty all of its own, gradually unfurling to reveal hints…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Saturated dark red. Knockout nose of cherries macerated in alcohol, minerals and truffle; hints at a confectionary sweetness. A wine of extraordinary concentration and power; has the thick extract to buffer its alcohol. Finishes with great grip and near-freakish length. By far the best bottle I’ve had to date of this wine, which in the…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1994 Lafleur is a vintage that I drank regularly in the days when such off-vintages were cheap. However, it has long been a wine that seems permanently stuck in a root day: green and herbaceous on the nose, Loire meets Pomerol on the palate. Quite simply, I don’t think the Cabernet Franc achieved full…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby color. Initially mute nose opens to reveal a sappy black cherry and licorice aroma, but no sign of the superripe quality found in the best Lafleurs from decades past. Dense and extremely backward in the mouth; displays a very primary iodiney/fruit pit quality and excellent sweetness. Powerfully structured and quite tannic;…