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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

Just as it was en primeur, the 2017 Vieux Château Certan is regal and soaring right out of the glass. Inky blue and purplish fruit, chocolate, licorice, lavender, spice and mint come together in a dense, dark and powerful Pomerol. The 2017 is an explosive, vivid wine of monastic beauty. In this vintage, VCC is…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Vieux Château Certan was bottled at the end of May. It has a perfumed, slightly tertiary bouquet with blackberry, wild heather and just a touch of menthol. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe tannins on the entry, mainly dark black fruit, rather introverted at the moment that just needs bottle age to…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Gaffelière remains quite backward on the nose; the aromatics are biding their time but will be very attractive, offering pure black cherry, bilberry and light marine aromas that are very well defined. The palate is underpinned by fine, almost filigreed tannins and a superb bead of acidity. This La Gaffelière is harmonious…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Gaffelière is hands down one of the wines of the vintage. Towering in its stature and vertical lift, the 2018 dazzles right out of the gate. Inky dark fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and leather all run through this deep, wonderfully pliant Saint-Émilion. The 2018 is rich, deep and beautifully resonant, with tremendous…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Brilliant ruby-red. Ineffable liqueur-like perfume combines blackberry, black raspberry, cassis, truffle and tar. Fat, sweet and dense but quite closed in the mouth; not yet showing La Tache’s typical licorice component. But a complete wine with superb structure and a very, very long and subtle aftertaste that builds slowly and saturates the olfactories.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a steely yet airy bouquet that does not quite entrance like the excellent Chassagne-Montrachet this year. But it is still very well defined, and it gains intensity with aeration. The palate is concentrated with a light honeyed note on the entry, veins of marmalade and quince betraying the slight grillé…