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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Margaux is a soft, understated wine that speaks in hushed tones. Silky, delicate and understated, it offers lovely depth in a decidedly laid-back style, even by the standards of Margaux. Deceptive in its midweight structure, the 2014 is a classy wine that will likely only show its true colors with time in bottle….

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Château Margaux, has a fragrant bouquet with blackberry, graphite and light violet aromas. This feels very refined, very Margaux as banal as that sounds. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite precise tannin. This is an unreservedly understated First Growth, more masculine then I remember from barrel and just after bottling, firming up…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Lafite-Rothschild has a typically refined nose at first, though I notice that it gains more richness after five minutes and replicates the menthol scents that I noticed in the previous bottle four years ago. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, fleshy and ripe. White pepper and fennel infuse the red fruit. Perhaps…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1990 Léoville-Poyferré is a wine that I have drunk on several occasions over the years. This ex-château example has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with a touch of VA, though the aromatics are stuffed with so much fruit that you cannot help but fall for its charms. Touches of mint and melted dark chocolate…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Deep red-ruby. Remarkably complex aromas of chestnuts, earth, truffle, shoe polish and a cigar-box nuance. Suave, intensely flavored fruit; a very youthful, sharply defined and thoroughly delicious wine of great finesse. Finishes firm and long. Our favorite Poyferré since the ’83. The three Léovilles are stunning—and completely different in style—in 1990. 91(+?), use more clarity…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

I tasted the 1985 Lynch-Bages on two occasions. Firstly, at the property, I am perplexed by its loose-knit nose and disjointed palate. I put a question mark against my score because a dozen-plus encounters over the years were far superior. A second bottle at a private dinner in London reinstates my adoration for this forerunner…