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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot; 13.35% alcohol; pH 3.85; 76 IPT; 40% selection) Deep ruby. A very classic nose of cassis, cedar and smoky graphite is devoid of animal and earthy scents and conveys a sense of refinement rare for this wine. Then very smooth in the mouth, with excellent palate…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby-red. Intense aromas of red cherry, cassis, aromatic herbs and cedar. Rich, dense and suave, with concentrated flavors of dark berries, cedar and quinine complicated by smoky and peppery nuances. Finishes very long and smooth, with a highly tactile quality to the cedar and cassis flavors. This Gruaud stands out for its purity, as…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose is far superior to the previous vintage; interestingly, the first vintage is based on only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There’s much more fruit concentration here, with blackberry and raspberry laced with iodine and incense. It is cohesive, though not as complex as the bottle four years ago. The palate is medium-bodied…

Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)

The 2003 Lagrange was an early vintage picked from 11 to 24 September, the second earlier ever. For a 2003 it has an attractive bouquet with red cherry, cranberry, fig confit and dates, perhaps lacking typicity but there is nothing overblown. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and rounded with light spicy notes,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Currant, leather and tobacco on the nose. Sweet, dense and thick, with considerable power for Lagrange. Ripe note of dark chocolate. I would have scored this higher but for a slight dry spot in the middle palate that carried through on the aftertaste. My bottle may not have been representative.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lagrange is similar to the previous bottles at the vertical. The nose shows desiccated red fruit, fig and dusty bureau. It’s just missing a little presence and vitality now at 20 years of age. The palate is medium-bodied with a savory entry, quite leathery (though there are no Brettanomyces). It’s nicely balanced, although…