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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc has a very nuanced bouquet, yet it just needs a few swirls of the glass to develop those enticing scents of wild peach, orange pith, almond and chamomile. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine line of acidity and a lightly spiced, persistent finish. There’s real weight and…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Yquem has a slightly more Germanic nose than its peers, with a touch of petrol behind the veneer of dried honey, apricot and saffron. The palate is well balanced, with just a little oak to be subsumed. It’s very poised. Well-judged acidity drives through the harmonious finish. Give this three or four years…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

(like La Tache, this was still on its lees and not yet racked) Deep, slightly reduced, smoky aromas. Fat and sweet but succulent, harmonious acids give it a penetrating quality. Powerful flavors of red cherry and spice. Quite firm on the aftertaste. This component will be racked only for the final assemblage From a second…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Barton does not have the same vigour as the Poyferré ’90 and is hampered by a bit of brett. Tertiary in style, it offers scents of wild mint and light violet, though it needs more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, very malleable in texture, harmonious with an old-school, slightly…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red-ruby. Very reserved nose hints at smoke and rose petal, with fruit very much in the background. Impressively broad and dense but impenetrable, conveying an impression of fullness and a whiff of faded rose but not the treble tones or minerality of the Richebourg today. Best today on the slow-building finish, which is…

Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

The 2014 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brulées is a wine of raw, unbridled power. Dense and also deeply expressive, but very much in need of time to come together, the Brulées is super-impressive. Smoke, scorched earth and driven red-toned notes give the 2014 its distinctively pungent, bold personality.