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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cantemerle finally shows the potential that it displayed out of barrel. It has a delightful, well-defined bouquet with blackberry, cedar and tobacco aromas, vigorous with impressive delineation and class. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, and a taut line of acidity. Fresh and vibrant with a poised and quite tensile finish….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, deep ruby-red. High-pitched, inky aromas of blackberry, violet and licorice. Juicy, lively and penetrating, with a restrained sweetness and a distinctly cool quality to its black fruit and graphite flavors. Nicely dense but not a fleshy style of 2009. Finishes with firm tannins and sneaky length, and a light touch. I’d lay this down…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 1998 Giscours is another level up from the ’97, delivering an attractive nose of blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, orange rind, leather and cedar. This is a step back to the classic Giscours of old. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, maybe a little foursquare and “correct,” but displaying superior balance and a…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 14 at a low yield of 30hl/ha. The nose might be even better than the 2019 with blackberry, black truffle, pencil shavings and a touch of sous-bois. The aromatics are heavenly, perhaps even more complex than the 2016. The palate is medium-bodied with a satin-textured entry…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

Deceptively alluring a few months after bottling, the 2017 Petrus is attractive and nuanced, and yet I get the impression it is going through a rather awkward stage. Floral and blood orange overtones add freshness and inner perfume to a Petrus that will age more on finesse than power. Olivier Berrouet opted for longer skin…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pétrus, as usual, is a wine that bides its time and I left my glass for five minutes before broaching. Bottled at the beginning of August 2019 it gradually unfurls with a mixture of red and black fruit, those pressed irises that I remarked upon out of barrel, now a hint of steaming…