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In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)

The 1982 Branaire-Ducru was surprisingly deep in color with just thin bricking on the rim. The nose is a mixture of red and black fruit, secondary aromas of fireside hearth, mint and cedar surfacing with time. This is certainly one of the more fragrant aromatics from the Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced,…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

Bright, amber-tinged red. Knockout aromas of ripe red cherry, cassis, milk chocolate and sweet spices. Rich and dense, with fleshy, fully ripe red and black fruit flavors that linger impressively. Big, ripe, sweet, creamy wine; almost opulent, but without any undue weight or overripe aromas or flavors. This has always been one of my favorite…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of cherry, leather and meat, with dusty and minty nuances. Then surprisingly sweet and silky in the mouth; classic dry-but-sweet claret flavors framed by firm acids and solid, ripe tannins. Not fat but certainly palate-coating and long. This got better and better with aeration.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Good full red. Pure, floral aromas of black cherry and plum are complicated by strong lead pencil and black pepper notes. Suave on entry, then conveys an almost saline sense of extract in the middle, with very good definition and verve to the pretty black fruit, ink and graphite flavors. Distinctly minty on the finish….

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 2008 l’Eglise-Clinet was picked 1 to 6 October and matured in 80% new oak. It has a very refined and detailed bouquet that is less powerful than the 2009 or 2010, yet there is wonderful articulation of the terroir here, dusky black fruit laced with black truffle and a touch of undergrowth. It is…

Vinous Table: Kitchen W8, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The 2010 Côte-Rôtie Château d’Ampuis is very high-toned on the nose with a little more VA than I would like, aniseed and liquorice infusing the mixture of blue and black fruit. Yet the palate shows much better balance and composure, finely-knit tannins, broad-shouldered with black truffle and kirsch on the dense and impactful finish. Again,…