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The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Glass-staining ruby. Potent raspberry, floral pastille and Asian spice scents are complicated by suggestions of mocha, licorice and pipe tobacco. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering sweet red fruit liqueur and cherry-vanilla flavors lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Finishes broad, seamless and extremely long, with slow-building tannins adding shape and grip. This expressive…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Figeac is simply extraordinary. A wine of pure energy and vitality, the 2016 pulses with a real sense of drive. Lavender, mint, crème de cassis and cedar start to develop in the glass, but what is most remarkable about the 2016 is its total sense of harmony. There is natural tension, a sort…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Figeac has another dimension aromatically, compared to the previous vintage. A cornucopia of aromas, red and black fruit, cedar, pencil shavings, truffle and a subtle marine scent that becomes more prominent with aeration. The palate is framed by chiseled tannins, the acidity is finely tuned, the fruit shimmers with tension and nascent vivacity….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, deep ruby. Superripe, brooding aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Sweet, concentrated and fine-grained, with terrific depth to the plush cassis and coffee liqueur flavors. Serious dusty, fine tannins will not stand in the way of early approachability but this wine has the structure for a 20+-year life in bottle.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot; 3.7 pH; 12.6% alcohol): Red with a pale rim. The fruity nose hints at macerated red cherries, bitter chocolate and dried herbs. Then big, fat and soft on the palate, with fresh, harmonious acidity providing adequate lift to the black cherry, chocolate and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Branaire Ducru has a somewhat conservative bouquet with cedar and graphite scented black fruit, touches of brown spice emerging with time. It never quite clicks into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly drier tannin than its peers, yet well balanced and fresh, hints of sage and bay leaf infusing the black…