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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 L'Évangile is a highly problematic wine. Whether that is a result of excessive heat stress in the vineyard or decisions made in the field and the cellar, is hard to say. I thought élevage would bring the wine together. Instead, time has only accentuated the awareness present in the en primeur sample. I…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

I was quite critical of the 2019 L’Évangile when I tasted it as a barrel sample, and of course the winemaking team has changed since this was made. The 2019 has a very floral bouquet of ripe dark berry fruit infused with violet and peony notes. The 15.3° alcohol has slightly blurred the edges since…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with red berry fruit, undergrowth, just a touch of stem addition here, though simpatico with the fruit. The palate is beautifully-defined with vivacious red fruit, more precision and focus compared to the La Perrière with a tender, lingering finish. Bon vin!

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Beaune Les Sizies 1er Cru has one-third whole cluster fruit with 15% new oak. Dark berry fruit and undergrowth form the nose, a little muted at first but opening with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy tannins, quite a sensual mouthfeel with a bright quite tart finish. Lovely. Closure: Diam

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has wonderful transparency on the nose of red currant and wild strawberry, plus glimpses of orange blossom and rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, lightly spiced and quite peppery in the mouth. Fine grip and length. This is a lovely Lavaux that will be…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru is darker in color than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques. The bouquet is more upfront and bold, touches of blueberry joining shimmering red fruit that is very well defined and becomes increasingly floral. The palate is medium-bodied with a silky entry. This is very cohesive, offering lithe tannins and a…