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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Lavières is initially tight on the nose, opening slowly to offer black cherries, blueberry and clementine peel. The palate is medium-bodied with a mixture of red and black fruit, and refreshingly saline in the mouth, particularly on the oyster-shell-tinged finish. Plenty of energy here, even if it’s not the best…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a splendid bouquet, very pure and perfumed, quite floral in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crunchy red fruit, a bit chalky, crisp black and red fruit with a vibrant, rather mineral finish. This is quite superb.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Bourgogne Rouge, which had been racked into tank the previous week, has a gentle bouquet that unfolds in the glass, with blackberry and mulberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a sappy entry, fine acidity, plus a sour cherry/prune note on the finish. Fine.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a lovely nose, very pure with neatly integrated oak, scents of hazelnut, slithers of tinned peach and apricot. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, saline and edgy with a mineral-driven finish that is more common within Premier Crus. Superb.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

Taken from tank, the 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté La Covée de Bully has an open nose with apple blossom, orange pith and light grapefruit scents that gradually unfurl in the glass. The palate is zesty on the entry; it’s a bit of a livewire Aligoté with life-affirming vitality and tension on the finish. One of the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a strict bouquet, black cherry and boysenberry scents laced with a touch of violet. The palate is well balanced and very smooth, almost a sumptuous Morey-Saint-Denis with touches of white pepper and graphite on the finish. This will require two or three years in bottle. Fine.