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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay "Vendage Sélectionée" is a selection from four parcels below Echards, Pluchots, Jeotte and Grand Champs that is matured in a little new oak. It has a high-toned bouquet of blueberry and raspberry fruit, and little cassis emerges with time in the glass. The palate is sweet and succulent on the entry and…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Givry Crausot 1er Cru Blanc is quite backward on the nose despite encouragement. C’mon – give me more! The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, just a hint of orange peel and sour lemon complementing the citrus fruit, and the finish is nicely defined and persistent. Give this a couple…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas has a lovely red cherry, strawberry and rose petal scented bouquet that displays plenty of vigour with well integrated oak. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, a little low in acidity but very pure with a caressing and quite persistent finish. This shows off the vineyard in a…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village comes from seven vineyards, of which two are Premier Crus (Les Gruenchers and Les Baudes). It contains 25% whole bunches. The lifted, floral bouquet is quite tightly knit at the moment but displays decent mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of strawberry and cranberry fruit, a commendable acidic…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Aloxe-Corton Clos des Maréchaudes 1er Cru offers blueberry and raspberry preserve on a seductive nose that I prefer to the Pommard Les Rugiens tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, neatly integrated oak and fine poise on the finish. This comes recommended.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(frost cut production by 30% in 2016): Pale yellow. The closest of these premier crus to exotic on the nose, offering scents of ripe peach, hazelnut and honey. Compellingly rich and sweet on the palate, but with its sucrosité leavened by a distinctly sappy quality. As dense and broad as this wine is, it also…