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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a strict bouquet, black cherry and boysenberry scents laced with a touch of violet. The palate is well balanced and very smooth, almost a sumptuous Morey-Saint-Denis with touches of white pepper and graphite on the finish. This will require two or three years in bottle. Fine.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

From the very beginning, the 2015 Canon has made an eloquent case for itself as one of the wines of the vintage. Multiple tastings from bottle only confirm what several early tastings hinted at: the 2015 Canon is simply extraordinary in every way. Sumptuous and exotic, with no hard edges and exceptional balance, the 2015…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Canon has a tightly wound bouquet with mineral rich black fruit, raspberry coulis, rose petal and desiccated orange peel. It takes time to come together, but it does. The palate is well defined, very focused with fine minerality. This is discreet but beautifully balanced, clean and precise with a sense of energy and…

2014 Brunello di Montalcino and 2013 Riservas (March 2019)

Luminous bright pale red. The inviting nose offers redcurrant, sour red cherry, licorice, flint and violet aromas. Then slightly richer and riper than the flinty-floral nose suggests, with musky flavors of red fruit and sweet spices complicated by hints of loam. Closes long, musky and smooth.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Montrose can flirt with perfection when it wants to. This bottle, poured blind, is not the best example I have tasted, partly because it displays just a soupcon of Brettanomyces on the nose. The aromatics have a lovely warmth, with blackberries, rosemary and pencil shavings. However, because of the Brett, I feel that…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno is a powerful, muscular wine, and yet it also has a sense of translucence that is hugely appealing. Iron, smoke, blood, leather, tobacco and incense give the San Lorenzo a distinctly feral, wild quality. I expect the 2015 will always remain a bit rustic in feel, but it…