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Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Calon Ségur offers powerful black fruit, melted road tar, tobacco and pencil shaving scents, here with a touch of wild mint that surfaces after 15-20 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture. This solid Saint-Estèphe is shaking off the baby fat of that vintage and is more reserved than the…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Gattinara Vigna Valferana is every bit as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. Rich and resonant, the 2016 is so supremely beautiful as it opens up in the glass. It is a wine of real breadth and textural expansiveness. Rose petal, mint, sweet dried cherry, tar, anise and orange peel are…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers…

Alto Piemonte, Valtellina & Points North (Mar 2022)

The 2018 Gattinara is a stunning wine in the making. Extraordinary in its complexity and nuance, the 2018 dazzles with a kaleidoscope of aromas, flavors and textures. Kirsch, hard candy, flowers and lively acids captivate the senses. The 2018 is elegant, weightless and full of character. It is, quite frankly, everything Gattinara can and should…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru, which was protected by the frost with candles, hence there are seven barrels this year compared to the five barrels of the previous year. Red and black fruit on the nose, graphite coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins. The partial whole clusters lend a discrete…

Cellar Favorite: 2020 Domaine Bernard-Bonin Meursault La Rencontre (Feb 2024)

Despite strong competition, the 2020 Meursault La Rencontre came out victorious. This cuvée emerges from two lieux-dits, Les Pelles and Sous La Velles, both populated with vines over 75 years old, matured with just 10% new oak. Lucid silvery in hue, the 2020 offers an exquisite bouquet laced with mineral-infused yellow fruit. It is almost…