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The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle (Feb 2019)

The 2016 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 24–25 at 31hL/ha (the highest of the five crus). It has an utterly sublime bouquet of blackberry, briar, crushed limestone, a dash of cracked black pepper and a little oregano. This is extremely complex and displays exquisite focus, to the extent that you could just…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Saturated bright, dark red-ruby. Very dark, reserved scents of blackberry, violet, licorice and spices; rather brooding and cool for an infant La Tâche. Boasts extraordinary concentration but this is very tightly wound today and showing less early flesh than the Richebourg. Like an essence of a wine, but distinctly vertical in the early going. The…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

A stunning wine, the 2017 Ornellaia offers a captivating interplay of richness and energy. Picking early was the key. Young vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were harvested in August for the first time ever. In the glass, the 2017 offers up an enticing mélange of mocha, cedar, tobacco and licorice, with soft curves that add…

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

Sweet rose petal, mint, chiseled red-toned fruit and chalk give the 2014 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn its sculpted, brilliant personality. All the elements are in the right place. A wine of translucent energy and weightless elegance, the Sorì Tildìn is hauntingly beautiful today. A host of floral notes and red berry fruit infuse the persistent, chiseled…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia is an introvert at this stage. Medium in body, with terrific persistence and impeccable balance, the 2018 is not in any mood to show all its cards today. Hints of red berry fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing. I won’t be surprised to see it…

Barbaresco – Out of the Shadows: The 2016s & 2015s (Oct 2018)

Gaja’s 2015 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Deep, pliant and resonant, the 2015 exudes class from the very first taste. Today, the aromatics are not especially open or expressive, but it is the wine’s depth and overall sense of harmony that really carry the day. Hints of orange peel, spice and rosewater give the 2015 an exotic…