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New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

(80% tempranillo and 20% garnacha): Vivid ruby-red. Suave, spicy red fruit preserve and potpourri scents are complicated by notes of vanilla, licorice and mocha. Sappy, focused and energetic, offering sweet raspberry and cherry-cola flavors that are given lift by juicy acidity. Impressively pure and penetrating on the finish, which leaves floral pastille and smoky mineral…

2005 Tuscany – Ten Years Later (Dec 2015)

The 2005 Tignanello is just beginning to enter the early part of its drinking window, although it clearly has enough stuffing to drink well for another 20 years, if not longer. Smoke, graphite, plums, earthiness, black cherries and spices take shape in the glass, but it is the wine pure power and intensity – both…

Vinous Table: Providence, Los Angeles, CA (Feb 2020)

The 1990 Haut-Brion is exotic, flamboyant and super-expressive. Dark fruit, leather, licorice and grilled herbs are all amped up. Although the 1990 doesn’t quite have the aromatic depth and intensity of the very finest years, it is nevertheless a stunning, gorgeous wine of the highest level.

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Good medium color. Fabulous aromas of spicy cherries, minerals, tobacco and smoky oak. Saline entry, then intense, spicy fruit and excellent extract. Very firm and subtle, with outstanding clarity of flavor. Lovely ripe acids and a long, subtle aftertaste. Will no doubt live in the shadows of the larger-scaled, more dramatic ’89, but this very…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1985 Haut-Brion Blanc is one of my favourite vintages in recent years. This bottle does not disappoint. Youthful in colour, it maintains that disarming intensity on the nose that knocks you sideways: cold wet limestone, sea cave, honeysuckle and this bottle showing a touch of quince. Previously I made comparisons towards Chablis, although this…

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2016 The Flight is gorgeous. Dark, brooding and closed in on itself, the 2016 is going to need a number of years to be at its very best, but it is incredibly beguiling today. Plum, black cherry, lavender, blood orange menthol, and a host of more mineral-driven notes punctuate this super-expressive wine. This is…