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Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1997 Climens is a wine that I have tasted three of four times, but it has never convinced me that it is a top-drawer offering. It has quite a powerful, rather mushroom-like bouquet with apricot and dried honey, though I would have liked a little more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied though never really…

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Lively, sweet aromas of citrus skin and peach complicated by spice, resin and marzipan from the new oak. Lively, intense apricot and spice flavors are currently quite tightly wound and dominated by the oak. Racy and stylish, but in need of aging. Showing very much as it did a year ago from barrel.

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Dark purple. Blackberry, kirsch and violet on the nose, with smoky minerals and cracked pepper gaining strength with air. Juicy dark berry flavors smoothly combine depth and vivacity, with zesty minerality carrying into the finish. Finishes sweet and very long, with resonating spiciness and florality.

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Opaque purple. Captivating aromas of boysenberry, dark cherry, pepper, spices, cocoa powder and smoky minerality. Then intense and penetrating in the mouth, with brilliantly fresh dark berry and kirsch flavors lifted by notes of cinnamon and star anise. Finishes pungent and impressively long, with a palate-saturating whiplash of dark berry and spice flavors. This wine…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Medium red. Musky, soil-inflected aromas of minerals, coffee, chocolate, roasted herbs and underbrush. Offers excellent richness and ripeness, not to mention very good volume for the year, but comes across as classically dry. Finishes with excellent spicy length.

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Vivid ruby. Smoky cherry, red berry and potpourri scents show excellent clarity and pick up spiciness with aeration. Stains the palate with intense black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, with a sexy floral pastille quality adding complexity. Finishes with impressive energy and thrust, firmed by fine-grained tannins and piquant minerality. Avril thinks that this will…