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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

Tasted several times, the 1986 Yquem is a sublime expression of the vintage. It was the opposite of the previous year as it saw widespread botrytis after 40mm of rain in late October followed by a sunny November. It comes armed with an effervescent bouquet with pure honey, almond, quince and saffron, that patisserie scent…

Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

A wine of sublime delicacy and finesse, the 2009 Cristal Rosé is simply magnificent. The 2009 is surprisingly refined, silky and nuanced for a wine from a warm vintage. The red and floral-infused overtones are quite attractive, but it is the wine’s exceptional balance that places it among the best new releases of the year….

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

One of the few disappointments in this tasting, the 1990 Salon comes across as oddly evolved and disjointed today. It is hard to believe this is a representative bottle. Disgorged à la volée, with no dosage.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Rather deep copper color. Aromas of brown butter, toffee and walnut call to mind a dry oloroso sherry. Then large-scaled, rich, smooth and mouthfilling, with impressive concentration and a powerful impression of solidity. Shockingly fresh in the mouth following the mature aromas. In fact, this wine seemed to grow more vibrant as it opened in…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Smith Haut-Lafitte has a much simpler bouquet than the 2014 Pape-Clément, with scents of pencil lead and cooked meat infusing the black fruit. The palate is well balanced with slightly firm tannin, moderate levels of acidity that segues to a very peppery and vivacious finish. This is a sophisticated and classy Pessac-Léognan, though…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the 2014 Les Hauts de Smith is bright, aromatically lifted and beautifully layered on the palate. Succulent red cherry, cedar, tobacco and wild flowers give the wine its aromatic topnotes. This is a very pretty and charming second wine from Smith Haut Lafitte. The blend is…