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Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, also the product of a cool vintage, comes across as a bit nervous today. It is an absolute infant by Monfortino standards, a wine that automatically forces the mind to project into the future. Readers lucky enough to own it will want to wait for at least a few years….

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Good deep red. Tight but delicate and precise nose hints at violet and minerals; strong evidence of calcaire here. Then suave, silky and juicy, with bright acids framing the subtly sweet dark fruit flavors. More about perfume than sheer structure or depth, but then this wonderfully intense wine is currently in a rather imploded stage….

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, Cuban tobacco and grilled nuts; a bit more red fruit in character than either the 2000 or the 2001. Silky, seamless and enveloping, but the wine’s excellent vinosity gives its creamy fruit very good definition. Consistent from start to finish. Tannins are substantial but fine, allowing the fruit…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1982 Lafite-Rothschild was a bottle with impeccable provenance, having been stored at the renowned La Tour d’Argent restaurant for its entire lifetime before being auctioned. Backward and youthful on the nose, this is intense with black fruit infused with cedar and graphite, gaining delineation with time yet still warning that it’s being broached too…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Rauzan-Ségla has a well-defined bouquet that is fresher than many 2003s at 20 years of age, with fragrant scents of blackberry, peony and iris flower. Good vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, taut and linear with a graphite-tinged, slightly tarry finish. Not bad at all, though I am not…