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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Straw-gold color. Deep aromas of acacia honey, brown butter, oak spice and mint. Quite sweet but only moderately thick; shows a resiny oaky quality in the mouth. Seems a bit monolithic today and lacking in nuance; I don’t get the typical lift and class of the cru. Honeyed, slightly alcoholic finish, with the viscosity building…

Come On Aline: Château Coutet 1943-2017 (Feb 2024)

The 1990 Coutet is slightly deeper in color than the 1989. Tropical fruit, pineapple, passion fruit and mango mingle with beeswax aromas, though the 1989 has a little more delineation. The palate is well balanced with a waxy texture, tangerine and marmalade notes with a slightly peppery finish. Although again, by direct comparison, the 1989…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 d’Yquem is a vintage that I have awarded perfect scores to in the past however, neither bottles merit that on this occasion. The first bottle feels scalped, so much so that a second bottle is checked. This has a very refined and sophisticated bouquet with wild honey, brioche, vanilla pod and light orange…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2003 Brane-Cantenac has never been the best vintage of recent years. Here, the wine is still smudged and earthy on the nose, displaying less aniseed than I have observed in the past. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, toffee-tinged red fruit and a rather monotonous finish that pales against other vintages. Drink soon….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of currant, smoke and coffee. Complex and expressive in the mouth, with lush but lively fruit and a sappy quality. Very pure, shapely wine with an attractive restrained sweetness and no shortage of depth. This largely avoids the jammy side of the vintage. Finishes with broad tannins and very good…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1995 Vieux Château Certan is a very capable wine that is now reaching its peak. The Cabernet Franc has always been the key component, imparting a lovely ferrous, undergrowth note on the nose that neatly counterbalances the intense red and black fruit laced with mint. The palate is ripe and generous with kirsch and…