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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Full, deep ruby. Aromas of cassis, violet and black pepper, with a strong torrefaction component of coffee and chocolate. Enters the mouth bright and pure, then turns austere and tight, with dark berry and mocha flavors lingering nicely on the aftertaste. Mounting, rather tough tannins are somewhat softened by a repeating chocolatey note. In 2012,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Tertre Rôteboeuf has fine delineation on the nose with raspberry, blackberry and Seville orange marmalade, a hint of peppermint emerging with time. A little Grenache-like maybe? The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe red fruit laced with mint, maybe a little drying towards the finish and lacking the complexity of the aromatics? As…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Climens feels a little muted on the nose and lacks the vigor and complexity of the 2010 Coutet that happened to be tasted blind alongside. The palate is nicely balanced but it feels very muted at the moment and needs more tension on the finish. There is a sense of elegance here, but…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2010 Climens has just been a bit variable bottle-to-bottle. This was a transitional Climens as biodynamics was being introduced. Again, I find this a little subdued at the moment, perhaps going through a sulky adolescent stage. The palate is well balanced with a menthol-tinged entry, fine depth and acidity, more expressive towards the finish…

Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013 (Jan 2022)

The last time I tasted the 2009 Doisy-Daëne, I felt it was in a dumb phase. This bottle suggests that it is no longer in that phase! It has a lovely bouquet with honey, white peach, nougat and light marzipan scents, growing in intensity with just a touch of lavender. Wonderful definition. The palate is…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Rieussec is deeper in color than its peers, though this did come from a half-bottle. The bouquet features marmalade, peach and mango scents, though I aver that it does not deliver the mineralité of other, dare I say, more successful vintages. The palate is much better, offering harmonious honeyed fruit, marmalade, orange peel,…