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2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale yellow. Tight, slightly metallic nose hints at lemon, lime, green tea, creme brulee and vanillin oak. Very ripe but firm on entry, with penetrating stone fruit and lemon-lime flavors. Then explosive on the back half, with a rising, compellingly tactile and sweet finish that suggests a great future. These vines were picked very late,…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(in previous vintages, Denis Mortet had bottled his village parcels of En Motrot, Au Velle, En Champs, Combe du Dessus and En Deree separately) Bright red-ruby. Dark plum, currant, chocolate and smoky, nutty oak on the nose. Supple, moderately ripe and concentrated, with a restrained sweetness and a light peppery quality. Not quite as focused…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a taut, fresh and delineated bouquet with fine tension, touches of pressed white flower emerging with time in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite powerful but showing more complexity and depth than others that I have tasted at other Domaines. Very…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a tightly wound bouquet with lemon thyme, light mint and crushed stone aromas. The oak here is neatly integrated. The palate is well-defined, with edgy, citric tannins, fresh acidity and a little more lime than its peers. However, outstanding transparency and energy were pinned down on the finish, which…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a vivid, bright bouquet with perfumed, very floral red berry fruit and touches of white flowers filtering through with time in the glass. Quite classic in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly tarry black and red fruit, hints of black pepper and graphite towards a complex,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Capbern Gasqueton is a wine that I never tasted en primeur. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, tobacco, dried blood and loamy aromas that vie for attention, all served up with impressive delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a lovely rondeur here that counterbalances the structure of the vintage….