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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Inky ruby. Smoky cherry and dark berry aromas are complemented by suggestions of pipe tobacco, cedary oak and succulent flowers, and spice and vanilla notes emerge as the wine opens up. Shows very good depth and coats the palate with oak-spiced black and blue fruit flavors that take on a hint of cola on the…

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Vivid ruby. High-pitched aromas of red and dark berry preserves, potpourri and minerals, with a sexy note of Asian spices mounting with air. Juicy, focused and pure, offering palate-staining black raspberry and cherry flavors and subtle smokiness. The mineral note carries through the long, spicy, floral finish, which shows excellent clarity. I also had the…

Sonoma, Anderson Valley and Beyond: New Releases (Jan 2015)

The 2013 Pinot Noir Alberigi is a bit more structured and tannic than the Laguna, Radio Coteau’s other Russian River Pinot. Savory herbs, tobacco, smoke and game flesh out in a powerful, intense Pinot to enjoy over the next decade. The use of partial whole clusters (19%) adds considerable nuance.

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Léoville Las-Cases has a (typically) more introverted, tertiary, austere bouquet compared to the Léoville Barton. Despite coaxing it does not possess much lift – sullen, a wine with a Closed sign dangling on the front door. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, solid with a sweet core, nicely proportion but just…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Las-Cases has a backward nose with the unenviable task of following the Léoville Poyferré. But there is complexity here, more tertiary in style, with autumn leaves and cigar smoke infusing the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, fleshy to the degree that it disguises the backbone. Mouthfilling on the…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

Readers will have to be patient with the 2014 Léoville-las-Cases, as it is not likely to show well for a number of years. Tightly wound but also medium-bodied and classic in its construction, the 2014 is going to need quite a bit of time to come together. Léoville-las-Cases is so often a wine of power,…