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Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

Pol Roger”s flagship Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is fabulous in 2012. Rich, open-knit and seductive, the 2012 will drink well right out of the gate, although it certainly has the pedigree to age well for decades. Lemon confit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, spice and a kick of brioche infuse the 2012 with notable textural…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Pavie is a vintage I have met a couple of times before, this predating Gérard Perse’s acquisition in 1997. It has an attractive old school nose of light black fruit, roof tiles and cedar; a little diffuse but still fresh. The palate is medium-bodied with a tart cherry entry, wild mushroom and sandalwood….

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Clos du Chateau wafts from the glass with freshly cut flowers, mint, spices and sweet dark cherries. This is an ethereal, delicate Burgundy that is quite appealing for its fragility and sensual, feminine personality.

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

(from vines planted in the 1970s using only clones from the estate’s vineyards): Musky aromas of raspberry, strawberry, tobacco and game. Sweet, sappy and nicely high-toned, with a very ripe character and a high-pH mouthfeel that Liger-Belair says is due to the warmer clos and the clones. Finishes suave, pliant and nicely long, with dusty,…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2006 Léoville-Poyferré has an impressive Cabernet driven nose, almost Pauillac-like with pencil box and mint aromas infusing the vivacious black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very smooth in the mouth although not amazingly complex. Perhaps here it has lost some of its youthful zest, though there is impressive muscle with plenty…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full ruby-red. Ripe aromas of currant, milk chocolate and smoky oak. Lush, sweet and full, with superripe yet backward flavors of dark berries, dark chocolate and minerals. Wonderfully layered, structured wine whose excellent vinosity and firm tannins call for several years of patience.