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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level here was off by one-third, as this vineyard is on the Chambolle side of Morey-Saint-Denis, where frost was a factor): Healthy deep red. Musky, ripe aromas of dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Supple and pliant on the palate, showing lovely texture and sweetness for this cuvée; more relaxed than the village…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which is completely de-stemmed, offers pretty blueberry and raspberry fruit on the refined nose – pretty and playful. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins. There is a sharpness here, and a citric finish. Fine.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, totally destemmed, has a very pure bouquet of blackberry and bilberry scents, harmonious and delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black currant fruit, almost pastille-like in purity. Quite saline on the finish. This is a perfect and hopefully affordable introduction to Christophe Roumier’s winemaking skills.

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good medium red. Musky aromas of black raspberry, smoke and minerals, plus a whiff of game. Juicy but not especially high-pitched, offering scents of redcurrant, raspberry, tobacco and milk chocolate Substantial ripe tannins showing today. Here’s a village wine that will need time in bottle.

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good dark red. Musky, soil-driven aromas of dark cherry, sappy pomegranate, wild herbs and brown spices. Densely packed and silky but with excellent definition and energy to its dark berry, menthol, dark chocolate and herb flavors. Much broader than the Chambolle 1er Cru but also less evolved. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and terrific length.

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 La Grande Rue has a deep, introspective bouquet, offering more black fruit than red; touches of oyster shell and seaweed percolate through with time. The palate is where the quality shines through, in the filigreed tannins and the wonderful sense of symmetry. Fresh as a daisy without compromising intensity, especially on the pixelated…