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Vinous Table: TORC, Napa, USA (Oct 2021)

The 2001 Bâtard is absolutely stunning. What a wine! It’s everything one could ask for, and more. The aromatics alone are breathtaking. On the palate, the 2001 is vibrant, with the oiliness and texture of Bâtard, but no excess weight and exactly the sort of mellow patina a Grand Cru white Burgundy should show at…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(only modest crop losses to frost and mildew here): Tight nose offers scents of mirabelle, grapefruit and anise. This, too, conveys an impression of creaminess, but is more concentrated than the Bourgogne Blanc in spite of the closer-to-normal vine yields here. Finishes with a firm edge that calls for a year or two of patience.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright yellow. Refined aromas of white peach, spices and minerals. Classier and higher in acidity than the Meursault, with apple and stone fruit flavors carrying well on the back end. This wine was being bottled on the day of my visit.

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good dark red. Red berries, spices, smoke and earth on the nose, plus a suggestion of blacker fruits. Rich but youthfully backward and serious, with dark fruit flavors complicated by graphite, pepper and minerals. This combines the best characteristics of the Costa Russi and Sori Tildin. Finishes long and vibrant, with substantial dusty tannins and…

Gaja: Sorì San Lorenzo 1971-2011 (Nov 2014)

The 2011 Sorì San Lorenzo boasts massive depth, intensity and power. Black fruit, smoke, tar, licorice, savory herbs and leather are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass. Regardless of the year, the personality of Sorì San Lorenzo always comes through, which is why this is one of the great sites in…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a transitional wine in terms of the changeover from Jacques Desvauges to former Château Grillet winemaker Alessandro Noli following its acquisition by Groupe Artémis. It has a mélange of red and black fruit on the nose, the 55% whole bunch imparting scents of black pepper, damp undergrowth…