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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Smith Haut Lafitte is a powerful wine. Huge, searing tannins dominate the balance. Readers will have to be exceedingly patient. With several hours of air the fruit finally starts to emerge. Blackberry, grilled herb, smoke, licorice and incense all take shape in the glass. The impression is of brooding, somber, unrestrained power. Sadly,…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Inky purple. A wild, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, incense, olive paste and smoky minerals. Sweet, penetrating and pure, offering palate-staining boysenberry and cassis flavors and suggestions of candied licorice and fruitcake. Densely packed yet lively, finishing with remarkable power and smooth tannins that add shape and grip.

In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)

The 1982 Branaire-Ducru was surprisingly deep in color with just thin bricking on the rim. The nose is a mixture of red and black fruit, secondary aromas of fireside hearth, mint and cedar surfacing with time. This is certainly one of the more fragrant aromatics from the Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced,…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

Bright, amber-tinged red. Knockout aromas of ripe red cherry, cassis, milk chocolate and sweet spices. Rich and dense, with fleshy, fully ripe red and black fruit flavors that linger impressively. Big, ripe, sweet, creamy wine; almost opulent, but without any undue weight or overripe aromas or flavors. This has always been one of my favorite…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of cherry, leather and meat, with dusty and minty nuances. Then surprisingly sweet and silky in the mouth; classic dry-but-sweet claret flavors framed by firm acids and solid, ripe tannins. Not fat but certainly palate-coating and long. This got better and better with aeration.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Good full red. Pure, floral aromas of black cherry and plum are complicated by strong lead pencil and black pepper notes. Suave on entry, then conveys an almost saline sense of extract in the middle, with very good definition and verve to the pretty black fruit, ink and graphite flavors. Distinctly minty on the finish….