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Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2008)

(includes 5% grenache and 2% viognier; 15.8% alcohol) Opaque ruby color. Powerful, impressively concentrated black raspberry and boysenberry aromas are complicated by smoky minerals, candied licorice, incense and cured tobacco. Pliant dark berry flavors stain the palate and are energized by zesty minerals. A big, sweet palate-stainer that somehow manages to be graceful as well….

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2001 Masseto is one of the all-time great wines here. Vertical and soaring in its intensity, the 2001 occupies all dimensions, especially texturally, where it is so rich, so heady and so compelling. Next to other wines, or other vintages, the 2001 just has more of everything. I imagine well-stored bottles will drink well…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose was tasted from two bottles at the estate as the first was corked. The second offers intense black fruit with juniper and cedar notes, but something prevents it from blossoming, like the 1982, for example. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It’s a broad-shouldered Gruaud with a firm grip,…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose was tasted from two bottles at the estate as the first was corked. The second offers intense black fruit with juniper and cedar notes, but something prevents it from blossoming, like the 1982, for example. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit. It’s a broad-shouldered Gruaud with a firm grip,…

Best New Wines from the Central Loire (May 2010)

Vivid gold. An exotically perfumed bouquet displays pear nectar, orange pith, honey and marzipan. Fleshy, palate-coating pit fruit flavors are complemented by anise, truffle and honey, with a stony mineral underpinning. The finish is broad, smooth and sweet, leaving exotic mango and candied orange notes behind. Showing very good complexity now but possesses the structure…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2005 Cristal is another impressive wine in this vertical, but in this case, it is its performance in a very hard year that impresses most. There’s real depth, density and textural resonance here. Apple tart, chamomile, dried flowers, pear and brioche linger. “We had some rot issues, mainly in Pinot Noir, so we focused…