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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel, the 2015 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is a very serious second wine. The Clarence captures the personality of the vintage at Haut-Brion with terrific eloquence. An infusion of black cherry, mocha, tobacco, chocolate and violet leads into the dark, virile finish. What a gorgeous wine…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2016 Camarcanda is pretty, open-knit and gracious in its bouquet, although there is a good bit of Cabernet tannin underpinning the dark fruit. Hints of chocolate, mint, sage, tobacco, licorice and blackberry develop in the glass. The 2016 needs a few years to soften, but it is undeniably attractive and inviting. It's hard to…

Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Deep ruby. Expansive scents of cherry liqueur, cassis and vanillin oak also show very good definition, with hints of woodsmoke and cola adding interest. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering juicy black and blue fruit flavors and a lively spine of acidity. Quite rich for the vintage, finishing with powerful thrust; smooth tannins come…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

Bright dark red. Raspberry and flinty mineral aromas are accented by peppery spices. Densely packed, sappy and quite dry, conveying strong inner-mouth lift and crunchiness to the juicy dark raspberry and spice flavors. Finishes with lively lingering spicy perfume.

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Glistening violet. Potent, mineral- and smoke-accented dark berry, cherry cola and floral scents show excellent clarity and spicy lift. Lively and seamless in texture, offering sweet black raspberry, cherry preserve and boysenberry flavors and hints of spicecake and candied rose. Closes on an appealingly sweet note, with sneaky, slow-mounting tannins and strong, smoky persistence.

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is a powerful, dense wine. Orchard fruit, chamomile, saline notes and dried flowers open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A rich white, the 2018 Bianco possesses tremendous weight, but it is also very much closed in on itself. I am intrigued to see how the 2018 ages.