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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good deep red. Deep, brooding aromas of plum, menthol, truffle, marzipan and chestnut; very Serralunga. Fat, sweet and full but youthfully inexpressive; impressively thick but monolithic at present. This expands dramatically toward the back, finishing with huge, broad tannins. A very tight wine in need of extended aging: I can see this being quite long-lived,…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby. Rather dumb nose exudes a faint shoe polish aroma. Dense, velvety, soft and mouthcoating; fills those hard-to-reach spots on your palate. Really an outsized wine, with thick, chocolatey fruit and major dusty tannins. But currently monolithic. In France they’d call this Monsieur Plus.”

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Léoville Barton has a lovely nose of brambly black fruit, melted tar, tobacco leaf and undergrowth, very traditional in style but after three decades, remaining fresher and more vibrant than many of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied and possesses more fruit and greater density than the Langoa-Barton. I love the acidity here…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

It has been several years since I last encountered the 1988 Léoville Barton. It is just a tad smudged on the nose compared to the 1988 Lynch Bages. Pencil box aromas mix with black fruit and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The palate has evolved in the interim period, grainier in texture than I…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1978 Latour, served from ex-château double magnums, is a wine that I have encountered several times over the years. Of course, provenance plays its part, likewise the large format, yet I remain unconvinced that this is a top-flight Latour. At least the bouquet is fresh with cedar and pencil lead aromas, commendably detailed considering…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1987 Latour is another off-vintage I had not tasted before, one I had requested, knowing how well this First Growth performs in off-vintages. That said, the estate had lost its mojo in this era and served blind against the 1967; this is no match. According to Frédéric Engerer, the Merlot was severely affected this…