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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(83% cabernet sauvignon and 17% merlot; 13.6% alcohol) Saturated ruby. Very-ripe-verging-on-overripe nose dominated by strawberry liqueur, black fruits and faded flowers. Creamy and sweet but with very good acidity giving shape to the middle palate, this shows distinct hints of surmaturite to its sweet, creamy red and black fruit flavors. Finishes with mounting, slightly dry…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a wonderful bouquet with vibrant blackberry, sous-bois, mint and rose petal aromas that soar from the glass as if there is not tomorrow. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, pure blackberry and raspberry fruit laced with cedar, tobacco and a touch of mint. This…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

Two bottles of the 2010 Grand Puy-Lacoste were opened, the first showing just a little oxidation. The second has an attractive minty bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit laced with subtle marine/seaweed notes, a touch of graphite developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive tension and wonderful freshness right from the…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1988 Yquem is a vintage that I have drunk with enormous pleasure on numerous occasions. This last bottle was the perfect ending to a horizontal of 1988 Roumier wines at Noizé. It was a late harvest that lasted until All Saints Day (1 November). A total of 6 tries were necessary through the vineyard,…

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Yquem is similar to the bottle I tasted two years earlier, one of my favorite vintages from that decade. Orange pith, quince, wax resin, and mandarin blossom on the nose, yet there is more control and focus than in other warmer vintages. The palate is underpinned by a wonderful frisson of acidity that…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1991 Yquem is a vintage that I have not tasted for some 14 years. Several parcels survived the frost on 21 April that enabled an Yquem to be made from three tries through the vineyard. Deep in colour, it has a tangy marmalade and adhesive scented bouquet that oddly reminds me of the 1991…