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Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Duhart-Milon is noticeably deep in color. It has a crisp bouquet of brambly black fruit, truffle, freshly rolled tobacco and just a touch of mint. The aromatics here are impressive and exude Pauillac class. The palate is medium-bodied with suppler tannins than the aromatics augur, and austere but quite deep in the mouth,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Currant, shoe polish, currant leaf and nutty oak on the nose. Chunkier and fleshier than the Carruades de Lafite-in fact, almost rustic by comparison-but with firm supporting acidity. Rather backward wine that will need at least a few years of aging once it bottled.

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Deep lurid ruby. Heady, smoke- and spice-accented boysenberry, cherry liqueur and violet aromas show excellent clarity and pick up a hint of olive with aeration. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet energetic dark berry preserve, cola and floral pastille flavors, plus a suggestion of spicecake. The extremely long, velvety finish features…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Screaming Eagle is fabulous. Rich and ample on the palate, with soaring aromatics from the Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Ripe red plum, pomegranate, mint, kirsch, lavender and sweet spice notes are beautifully delineated in the glass. In this tasting, the Cabernet-based Screaming Eagle is quite a bit more…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

Matured in 25% new oak and 90% whole bunches, the 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru is the most opulent of Groffier’s 2019s with kirsch and orange zest infusing the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a little oak to be subsumed on the entry. Good weight, quite muscular for a Chambolle with…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts Doix 1er Cru comes from 80-year-old vines, this blend including 50% whole bunches. It has a powerful nose with iris and sous-bois aromas infusing the predominantly black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, full of tension and quite precise, yet still a little “compact” on the finish. It…