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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de La Roche Grand Cru, which is 50% new oak and 50% whole bunch, has a powerful bouquet, much more floral and extravagant than the Clos Saint-Denis but less complex and terroir-driven. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, a svelte texture, layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit and fine mineralité finally…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Pin is magical. Soft, seamless and exceptionally beautiful, the 2019 is riveting right out of the gate. The wine's balance is just mind-blowing. In this vintage, the new oak is down to 80%, which works so well here in helping release an extra kick of freshness. Red/purplish fruit, rose petal, blood orange,…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Le Pin is more oak-driven on the nose than its peers, creamy black cherries and blueberry fruit, lacking the intellect that one might have expected at this stage. The palate is medium-bodied with a lot of oak tannins, creamy with a torrefactory, singed leather element towards the finish. I don’t quite understand this…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Pin is a Pomerol that I did not taste out of barrel when samples were being sent, so the first time I encountered it was with Jacques Thienpont in his office, together with his new right hand, Diana Berrouet-Garcia. It has a fragrant nose of brambly red fruit, touches of sous-bois and…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

The 2011 La Romanée is a huge overachiever. It is also likely to start drinking well sooner than some of the surrounding vintages, although it will take a good decade or so to get there. Creamy, resonant and inviting to the core, the 2011 offers lovely pliancy in its sweet red stone fruit, violet and…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good full red. Reticent but complex nose hints at musky raspberry, coffee and smoky minerality. Sappy, juicy and sharply delineated, showing brisk acidity and lovely high-pitched flavors of red cherry, raspberry and blood orange. In a rather pliant style for this grand cru but with terrific energy and cut. Finishes firm and very long, with…