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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1984 Yquem is one of the weakest wines of the decade from the estate. As I found from the solitary half-bottle that I drank some years back, the nose is very simple with dried honey and resinous scents, but there’s little to really satiate the senses. The palate is bitter on the entry with…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy medium red. Closed nose hints at dark berries, licorice and rocks, along with a subtle note of game. Less perfumed in the mouth than the 2014 version but shows good peppery energy and a fairly silky texture to its purple fruit flavors. Finishes with very good length and lift and no dryness. This grew…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

A much more finessed, silky side of Gevrey emerges from the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetiers. Ethereal yet wonderfully pliant on the palate, the 2013 is endowed with magnificent depth. As is typically the case with superb Cazetiers, Bruno Clair’s 2013 is all about understatement and finesse, two signatures of this great Gevrey site.

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

A wine of pure texture, Pierre Damoy’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is gorgeous in 2012. Classic dark blue and purplish Bèze notes flesh out on the mid palate, with floral and spice overtones that add nuance. Silky and creamy through to the finish, the 2012 possesses notable power, intensity and resonance, all qualities that will allow…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2017 Barolo Monprivato is elegant, classy and nuanced. Crushed red berry fruit, spice and blood orange lend and exotic flair to this silky, mid-weight Barolo. The 2017 loses some of its persistence with air, but it offers tons of immediacy and sheer allure. Best of all, the 2017 will drink well with minimal cellaring….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Lafite-Rothschild is quite high-toned and expressive on the nose, perhaps the most ostentatious of the top flight 2009s with upfront black cherry and boysenberry fruit, lavish new oak and touches of violet. The palate is sleek and satin-like in feel with copious dark cherry and boysenberry fruit, fig and dates, almost honeyed in…