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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

(14.5% alcohol; 70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon): Saturated, deep ruby-red. High-toned, superripe aromas of black raspberry, cassis and caramel. Then dense, velvety and huge in the mouth, with great power and chew to the thick flavors of cassis, raspberry and crushed chalk. This improbably thick wine boasts terrific sweetness but its…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 28 hectoliters per hectare; 14.5% alcohol) Very deep, opaque purple. Aromas of plum jelly, cassis, truffle and underbrush on the flamboyant, exotic nose and palate. A very pure Pavie, with enough acidity to carry the ripe fruit flavors through a long finish. Tannins…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pavie is conspicuously deeper in colour than its peers. It has a very intense but detailed bouquet with layers of blackberry, raspberry, cedar and subtle floral aromas. The aromatics have gained detail in recent years. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. A demonstrative Saint-Émilion, burly and dense with a powdery-textured finish that…

2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: An Epic Vintage (Dec 2012)

The estate’s 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon bursts from the glass with considerable richness and pure depth. The spring frosts lowered yields noticeably resulting in a wine that is a bit darker and heavier than is the norm. The rest of the vintage was on the warmer side, which gave the wine much of its ripeness and…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2011)

(a blend of 88% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot and 4% cabernet franc): Dark ruby-red. Aromas of crushed blackberry, liquid stone, licorice pastille, violet and graphite. Wonderfully sappy and energetic, with berry, licorice and stone flavors dominating. This extremely suave, sweet cabernet boasts terrific intensity and precision. Finishes with lush tannins and outstanding persistence. Screaming Eagle…

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

The 1998 Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil has developed beautifully since I last tasted it. What a wine. For the first few years of its life, the 1998 seemed to lack personality, then, suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, it blossomed. Today, the 1998 is rich, powerful and explosive, none of which was a few…