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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux has an enticing nose with mainly red fruit and a light cedar and irony tincture. It’s mature but still vigorous and has plenty in the tank. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, tensile entry. It’s irony (again) with a welcome spiciness on the finish. More concentrated than you…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

Surprisingly, the 2007 Latour has a bolder and more outgoing bouquet than other vintages from this era, adorned with plush blackberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit, slightly more floral than its peers. There’s a fine definition here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very well balanced, although not the most complex in the line-up. It…

Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)

The 2010 Lagrange was picked from 29 September to 20 October. This is even better than the 2009 on the nose with beautifully defined brambly red fruit, crushed stone, violet and iris aromas, almost pixelated in detail. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, precise and focused with a silky mouthfeel. This fans out…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Brooding aromas of blackberry, cassis and licorice. Backward and youthfully medicinal but already shows lovely floral lift–to to mention ripe framing acidity–to its dark berry, menthol and licorice flavors. A bit strict today and in need of several years of bottle aging, but the firm tannins are ultimately rather velvety.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 75/25 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Bright ruby with purple highlights. Reticent nose offers delicate aromas of blackcurrant, violet and cedar. A pronounced minerality gives delicacy to the rather forward blackberry, gunflint and licorice flavors. Finishes long, but with a slight green edge to the building tannins. A nicely balanced, medium-bodied Lagrange: perhaps…

Sonoma, Anderson Valley and Beyond: New Releases (Jan 2015)

The 2013 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers is a very pretty, appellation-level Chardonnay from Kistler. Apricot jam, flowers, tangerine, hazelnut and almond notes are woven together in a silky, supple Chardonnay built on texture and nuance. The 2012 is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. It is also the only Kistler Chardonnay that…